"We are smaller than the sea and bigger than ourselves when we ride waves.""Health is more than the mere absence of disease. Health is the presence of a superior state of well being - a vigor, a vitality that has to be worked for, day after day. "
" One thing all surfers have in common is, if they're in love with surfing, then they're in love with the sea, then they're in love with god. That's what makes surfing so magical. "
DORIAN PASKOWITZ ( 91 years old )
Sem comentários:
Enviar um comentário