We are smaller than the sea and bigger than ourselves when we ride waves.
1.30.2011
Wisdom
"I wish that when they asked us: What is surfing? I would have said it's a spiritual activity, and not just a sport, because that's what put us on the wrong track..."
"I wish that when they asked us: What is surfing? I would have said it's a spiritual activity, and not just a sport, because that's what put us on the wrong track..."
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